ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE – BEYOND OUR IMAGINATION

For years I listened to my Dad raving about this unique area in Italy, Cinque Terre, “The Five Lands”. He was introduced to the area while visiting his cousin in Genoa, the Archbishop. Cinque Terre is comprised of five small hamlets along Italy’s eastern Ligurian coast- Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Of course, when my dad discovered Cinque Terre, in 1923, it was an isolated area, devoid of tourists, because the towns were not accessible by roads. Now there is a road but cars are not allowed in most areas of the village. 

The stars of Ligurian wines come from Cinque Terre, “Five Lands”. The vines are ancient and not readily accessible. Some are close to the Ligurian Sea and are sprayed by breaking waves. Most Cinque Terre wine is a dry white wine made from Bosco and Alborola plus Vermentino which has more character. There is a sweet Sciacchetra which is in demand by wine enthusiasts of dessert wines. As for dry Cinque Terre, you guessed it, seafood, an incredible pairing.

Near LaSpezia the most southern area of Liguria is Calli di Luni a DOC wine zone that border’s Tuscany and is shared with Tuscany, and the area produces both red and white wines. Notably Vermentino is a highly desired grape that produces a dry white wine, with the same name, with green hues. Vermentino vines were probably brought to Italy from Spain in the fourteenth century. The first wine classified DOC in Liguria was Rossese di Dolceaqua, whose soft fruit and full flavor make it an uncommonly attractive red. The Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC zone covers the other classic wines of the area.

Wine estates in Liguria are small family operations, and generally the smaller the property, the more interesting the wine. Most native whites and reds are at their best when young and for the most part are kept for local consumption. Therefore, the number of Ligurian wines exported is small and it is difficult to recommend producers. However, any Ligurian wine at your local store is worth putting on your shelf.

Pesto is probably Liguria’s most famous food. When I worked at my father’s well know, mid-town restaurant, Camillo, pesto was not as readily used as it is today. At Camillo’s we had many wonderful dishes incorporating the pesto sauce. Most interesting to me, was Maitre D‘ Andy, a Genovese, and Simone the waiter from Cinque Terre’s debates whose pesto was the real thing, “how much basil, garlic, oil, and pine nuts. Take it to a higher level with a little spinach.” 

A Pasta Pesto Salad

Unfortunately, no matter what we do, we cannot produce a very close facsimile of pesto Genovese. We can make a good pesto, but not make an excellent pesto or great pesto.

Let me prove my statement:

First, it was proven to me yesterday. I was a guest of the Italian trade Commission at The International Culinary Center in NY, NY. The Italian Trade commission and Region Liguria sponsored Discover Liguria Culinary Riches event. One of the culinary riches of Liguria that I got to taste was pesto, and it brought back memories. Particularly, the native flavors that only Liguria can give us.

Second, the pesto ingredients that are harvested in Liguria can not be duplicated any where else in the world. You cannot even duplicate the taste over the mountain in Parma, Lombardy or Piedmont. The reason is the terrain and the minerals in the soil. The terrain is so steep that the farmers must work on narrow ledges that will not support any machinery. It is manual farming with soil that receives its nutrition from the mists that the Mediterranean Sea produces, and that there are more sunny days in Liguria than any other region in Italy.

Third, but not least, we can buy authentic Genovese Pesto. Just read the labels carefully. Here are a few reputable Genovese Pesto produces ; Lucchi e Guastalli, Olio Anfosso di Anfosso A e A & C. sas, Olio E Orti F.LLI De Andreis snc, Ranise Agroalimentare srl and Rviera Alimenti srl.

From my Ligurian friends and their debates we have the following recipe. It is our best rendition of Pesto Genovese recipe outside of Liguria.

 

Pesto Genovese

1 quart fresh baby basil leaves

*¼ cup to ½ cup fresh parsley

4 large cloves garlic

*½ cup pine nuts

*4 tablespoons grated Pecorino cheese

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Put the pine nuts and the garlic in a food processor, and pulse to chop fine, and then add the basil, parsley salt and pepper to taste. Turn on the food processor and slowly pour half the extra virgin olive oil through the feed tube. Stop the machine and remove the top. Scrape down the sides, replace the top and continue processing slowly adding the oil. It may not be necessary to add all the oil. The pesto should be pureed and a loose paste.

*Back to the debate. You may add a little more or a little less nuts and you can combine a few walnuts with the pine nuts. You may mix Parmigiano with Pecorino or substitute the Parmigiano for the Pecorino. You may add a little spinach with the parsley, or, you may omit the parsley and add extra basil. Leave out the asterisks and you have a classic pesto.

Ideal to top fresh pasta, gnocchi and soup. The Genovese love their pesto with most of their seafood. For fresh pasta, gnocchi and soup recipes go to  www.foodwineitalian.com. shop at RCS Cyber mall